Consultation notes

Model: ruby Harrison 

Age:20

Skin type: combination 

Hair colour: blonde

Allergies: N/A

Contemporary hairstyle- American Horror Story Inspired

1.       Curl the hair, making sure that you do all the curls in the same direction

2.       Once all the hair is curled brush out the curls

3.       Use hairspray so the curls stay.

Dark eyes and lips

1.       Apply cleanser toner and moisturiser

2.       Using correct shade apply foundation and concealer

3.       Powder using Illamasqua skin base

4.       Using an angled brush apply dark eyes shadow to the lid along the lash line and then blend out onto the lid

5.       Choose colour you want on the lid and apply how you like

6.       Apply eyeliner and mascara

7.       Apply dark lipstick

Theatrical Aging

First attempts at ageing makeup

In lesson we learnt how to create and age people using makeup, ageing makeup is often used in theatre therefore would have to be exaggerated for the audience to be able to see. The only benefit to this theatrical makeup being that as it will not be filmed it does not need to be perfect at it will not be seen in detail.

To create this look you will need:

- A small angled brush

-Supra Colour Palette

-Foundation brush

-Kryolan Foundation Palette

-Mascara Wand

-Tooth Enamel (for nicotine affect)

- Foundation for base

- Illamasqua powder

1.       To make it easier to apply the supra colours cleanse tone and moisturize the face then apply a base foundation

2.       Then apply a small amount of moisturiser to your palette then mix red and green to create a brown colour, you could add a little bit of yellow if needed.

3.       To make it easier to see where the natural lines would be on the models face, ask them to scrunch up their face to create the lines, while like this draw on the lines using the small angled brush.

4.       To create more depth you could add white slightly above the lines.

5.       Work in the colours with your fingers, blending it into the skins to create the natural look, typical placed to apply it include the forehead, sides of the eyes, chin and underneath the cheek bones to create depth.

6.       Then mix white with a little bit of yellow and apply to the brows and eyelashes.

7.       For the lips get the model to scrunch up their lips and apply Illamasqua powder by patting it on.

8.       You can also create broken veins by using a sponge and pink/red supra colour, applying to the cheeks and nose, then blend to add colour to the cheeks as well.

9.       Ask the model to dry their teeth as much as they can then dry using a baby bud and apply the tooth enamel

Wounds using Moulds

Products used:

-ProsAide Adhesive

-Gelatine pre-made mould

-Witch Hazel

-Wound Filler

-Fake Blood

-Kryolan Supracolour Palette

1.       Ensure that the client isn’t allergic to any of the products you will be using

2.       Making sure the area you will be working on is clean, apply the ProsAide to the skin where you are going to apply the mould and also on the back of the mould.

3.       Making sure to blend out the edges, when it is fully dry it will be clear

4.       Then apply the mould to the skin and press firmly on the area.

5.       Use the witch hazel to blend out the edges and work the mould into the skin

6.       If the mould used doesn’t make the clients skin tone you can use foundation to get the right shade

7.       Then you can also add colour around the wound using the supra palette, wound filler and fake blood 

Estella Design, Practice and Assessment

Hair:

1.       Make a section of hair for the front detail

2.       Then make a middle section and put into a pony and then curl and pin to make bun shape

3.       Curl the rest of the hair including the front section

4.       Pin the front section into the bun and add curls to the bun

Makeup:

1.       Prepare face my cleansing, toning and moisturizing

2.       Prime face using Illamasqua primer

3.       Apply Kryolan foundation

4.       Using concealer if needed

5.       Using kryolan blusher palette apply the apple of the cheeks

6.       Apply shade LC142 to the lips. 

Consultation notes: 

Model: Lucy Allen-baines 

Age: 18

Skin types: combination 

Hair colour: brown with blonde

Miss Havisham Design, Practise and Assessment

 Hair:

1.       Section the back of the hair and the front.

2.       Put the back section in a pony and plait

3.       Once plaited twist round and pin into place to create bun

4.       Curl front section

5.       Use dry shampoo to create ‘grey’ affect

Makeup:

1.       Prepare the face by Cleansing, Toning and Moisturising

2.       Use Illamasqua primer to prime the face

3.       Get the correct colours and use Kyrolan foundation palette mixed with Illamasqua skin base and apply to the face (use concealer if necessary)

4.       For aging lines mix the correct colour and apply wear aging lines would appear on the face using small brush

5.       Powder face using Illamasqua loose powder

6.       Go over brows using supra colour and a mascara wand to create aging brows, can also apply to the lashes

Historical Victorian Hair- Early

To do this I first sectioned the hair from the back section to the front.

Then with the back section I put it into a pony and plaited it then twisted it around to make a bun.

For the front detail I used a curling iron. 

I did the same for this at the back but instead of curling the front I plaited it. 

Burns

In great expectations Miss Havisham sets herself on fire, therefore in lesson we learnt how to create a burn on skin using prosthetics. To do this I used:

-Gelatine (can even use cooking gelatine)

-Palette Knife

-Supra Colours

-Illamasqua Powder

-Small Brush

-Glycerine

-Pus (optional)

1.       Firstly you need to heat the gelatine, you can do this by placing it in the microwave testing it every 10 seconds

2.       Once it is melted, making sure that it’s not too hot, apply to the skin using a palette knife. Making sure to blend out the edges to make it as realistic as possible.

3.       The start patting the gelatine with the palette knife to give appearance that the skin is coming away.

4.       Dry with the hair dryer, making sure it’s on the cool setting

5.       Powder the area using Illamasqua powder

6.       Add colours using supra palette, using darker colours to create depth to the burn

You can also add pus and fake blood. 

TV Aging

As well as learning theatrical aging we also learnt about TV aging. TV aging is more precise and in more detail as the camera will capture every pore on the skin. In lesson to create this we used prosthetic latex, which is often used in the industry. In class we used 'Old Age Stipple' by Kryolan, to create wrinkles on the skin.

To create this you will need

-Kryolan Old Age Stipple

-White Sponge

-Barrier Cream

1.       Firstly apply the barrier cream to the area you are going to use the latex.

2.       Pour the latex into a bowl and using the sponge pat it into the skin, making sure that the skin is stretched out

3.       The latex take a long time to dry so using a hair dryer on a slow and cool setting dry the area you have applied the latex

4.       When you know the latex is dry release the skin and you will have a wrinkled aged affect.

Bruising, Cuts, Grazes and Scars

Another skill we learn in our technical lessons was bruising, cuts, grazes and scars. I also decided to so some research into the stages of bruising as they would all show different colours. You develop a bruise, when some type of trauma causes bleeding near the surface of your body without breaking the skin.

These are the 5 stages of bruising:

Red Bruises

When you first get a bruise, especially one near the surface of your skin it usually appears red. The colour comes from fresh blood leaking into your tissues. Fresh blood is bright red because it contains both iron and oxygen.

Blue Bruises

Within a few hours, blood that has leaked from your injured blood vessels loses the oxygen it was carrying. As this occurs, the blood becomes darker and your bruise begins to look more bluish or purple.

Purple Bruises

Typically, over one to three days the bruise becomes more intensely purple and may even appear black. This occurs as red blood cells break down and iron is released into the injured area.

Green Bruises

You’ll know your bruise is beginning to go away when you notice it turning green. You’re likely to first notice the transition from purple to green at the edges or centre of a bruise. The green colour is due to the presence of a haemoglobin breakdown product called biliverdin.

Yellow Bruises

Lastly, your green bruise will eventually turn yellow as it enters the final stage of healing. The yellow colour is from the final breakdown product of haemoglobin in your skin, a chemical called bilirubin. The yellow fades as your body clears away the last of the debris from the bleed, leaving you with bruise-free skin.

To complete a bruise, cut, graze or scar you will need the following:

-Kryolan SupraColours/Bruise Wheel

-Wax

-Liquid Latex

-Foundation Palette

-Hairdryer

-Wound Filler

-Fake Blood

-Stipple Sponge

-Collodium

-TuPlast

In lesson I then attempted a cut. Below are the steps of how I completed it:

1.       Get some wax apply to the skin making sure it’s warm (skin) and smooth over the skin making sure to blend out the edges to appear more realistic.

2.       Keep adding wax until you have built up a good amount and enough to create a deep wound

3.       Then using a palette knife make a slit down the middle or wherever you would like your cut to be

4.       After the making the cut apply liquid latex of sealer to the wound, and dry with a hair dryer, making sure that it’s on the cool setting.

5.       Then apply the latex to the edges and blend, making sure to work quickly as it dry’s fast

6.       Using the sharp end of the palette knife pick away some of the latex to make it more like a cut and have a grazed affect.

7.       You can then use the supra colours to add colour around the edges, using a sponge apply and blend

8.       Wound filler can be used in the cut and you can apply where you see it needs it, you can also add fake blood for a fresher wound look.

9.        Keep adding colour and texture using a stipple sponge to achieve a realistic looking cut.

To create a scar:

1.       Make sure the area you are going to use is clean

2.       Apply Tu-plast to area of skin

3.       Using the hair dryer dry the skin making sure that you are using the cool setting

4.       If you want any roughness you could use the sharp end of a palette knife or a pin

5.       Use any makeup products to get the look you want and apply fixer spray

Late Victorian Hair

Women’s hair styles tended to mirror the lines of their gowns. As skirts were drawn back in the mid to late 1860s, so the hair was also drawn up and back to reveal the ears, for so long covered, but kept flat on top, with curls or a small twist at the back of the head replicating the back interest on the dress. With the first movements in the early 1870s the hair was lifted higher, sloping upward from forehead, then flowing to the shoulders in twisted plaits or curls, or both, or occasionally worn in a chignon.

(http://www.victorianweb.org/art/costume/nunn10.html)

For late Victorian hairstyles the curls moved towards the back, they may have used a little bit of padding and little curly fridges came into style. Late Victorians had big fancy hats that were popular and quite elaborate.  It is said that they thought that the longer a women sat having her hair done the better the hair dresser. In 1870 there was height at the sides and the top and curls coming down the back, they used flowers as decoration. Towards the late Victorian era we see things like the Marcel wave and the Apollo knot/bun hairstyle. In great expectations as Estella gets older we see the different hairstyles, as she get older her hair gets more romantic, with looser curls and a slightly off parting. 

In class we created our own version of late Victorian hairstyle, a step by step guide of how we did this is shown below:

Step by step creating late Victorian Hairstyles:

·         Section the hair for a middle parting.

·         Then section a front part of the hair from a middle part to create a bun.

·         With the middle section of hair put into a pony and curl, then curl the curls round and make a sort of bun, making sure to not make a typical round style and allowing some of the curls to look slightly messy

·         With the bottom section of hair also curl using curling tong, pin some of these curls up to the bun section but leave some to hang loose.

·         With the front section of hair curl away from the head, then pin away from the face with slight raise, as seen in images below.